Under Doublet
Under Doublet
This my prefered version - the under-doublet. The under-doublet is more accurate than a pourpoint, since it was probably normally worn to go below armour and the outer doublet. Normal wear would be the under doublet and then the outer doublet. You can see this in numerous illustrations, as the sleeves of two doublets are visible and the collar of the inner doublet is visible. An under-doublet is lighter in weight and more fitted than a normal doublet and has pourpoint length skirts, which are used to point hoes to. To make an under doublet use the same pattern as an over doublet, just make sure you add a collar.
Remember to make your outer doublet slightly larger if you are going to wear an under doublet!

Pourpoint


The pattern for the pourpoint can be taken from the Doublet pattern or a modern waist coat.
Material: Wool or linen, for pourpoint 0.75 to 1.5m of each. Colours: Any appropriate to your station
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Your pattern should look similar to the pieces below.
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Sew the lining together (body first, then add the skirt, then the shoulders)
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Sew the outer together, repeating as above.
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Pin the insides and outsides together, leaving the arm holes unpinned. Sew around the whole garment. Pull through the garment to the correct side and iron flat.
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Pin the arm holes by folding the edge of the material into the main body, so new edges can be seen. Remember to make sure that the shoulders are of the same length.
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Sew the arm holes using the hidden stitch. Iron again.
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Add point holes.