Partlets
These are small shoulder capes normally made of white material, in the 15th century they are basic practical shoulder protection; later in 16th century they become fashionable. They are very simple to make: there is a back piece and two front pieces which have a built in collar, it fastens down the front normally with ties and ties under the arms to keep it stable.
You just need some spare linen and a little linen tape or lucet cording for this garment. The one medieval picture I have seen of a partlet shows with garment in white. I would also suggest that you wear this above your shift and below your kirtle (unless at a Tudor event where they can be worn over the top to hide the kirtles' neck line).
Alternatively you could use some scrap linen to use as a neckerchief (an oblong piece of material wrapped around your neck and stuffed into your cleavage).
During the Tudor period, it became popular for richer gowns to be made with a matching partlet.
- Take the following measurements - your bust measurement loosely over your kirtle and/or gown, your collar bone to 5cm below your breasts, from shoulder to shoulder.
- With these measurements you should be able to make a pattern which looks like this after you have cut out the arm and neck holes. Remember to add a sewing allowance. Fold this pattern in two and make a copy of this half pattern. The double pattern will be the back while the half pattern will be used for the front panel.
- Cut out your linen and pin the neck pieces together. Take this opportunity to make sure the neck and arm holes are how you would like them.
- Sew the neck pieces together with a back stitch and finishing with the overcast stitch.
- Fold the rest of the raw edges over twice and sew using the hemming or running stitch.
- Add underarm ties and front fasteners.
